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From
Mens Style
- By Christopher Ketcham
In Utah, a
modern-day caveman has lived for the better part of a
decade on zero dollars a day. People used to think he
was crazy
DANIEL SUELO LIVES IN A CAVE. UNLIKE
THE average American—wallowing in credit-card debt,
clinging to a mortgage, terrified of the next downsizing
at the office—he isn't worried about the economic
crisis. That's because he figured out that the best way
to stay solvent is to never be solvent in the first
place. Nine years ago, in the autumn of 2000, Suelo
decided to stop using money. He just quit it, like a bad
drug habit.
His dwelling, hidden high in a canyon
lined with waterfalls, is an hour by foot from the
desert town of Moab, Utah, where people who know him are
of two minds: He's either a latter-day prophet or an
irredeemable hobo. Suelo's blog, which he maintains free
at the Moab Public Library, suggests that he's both.
"When I lived with money, I was always lacking," he
writes. "Money represents lack. Money represents things
in the past (debt) and things in the future (credit),
but money never represents what is present." |
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On a warm day in early
spring, I clamber along a set of red-rock cliffs to the mouth of
his cave, where I find a note signed with a smiley face: CHRIS,
FEEL FREE TO USE ANYTHING, EAT ANYTHING (NOTHING HERE IS MINE).
From the outside, the place looks like a hollowed teardrop,
about the size of an Amtrak bathroom, with enough space for a
few pots that hang from the ceiling, a stove under a stone eave,
big buckets full of beans and rice, a bed of blankets in the
dirt, and not much else. Suelo's been here for three years, and
it smells like it.
Night falls, the stars wink, and after an
hour, Suelo tramps up the cliff, mimicking a raven's call—his
salutation—a guttural, high-pitched caw. He's lanky and tan;
yesterday he rebuilt the entrance to his cave, hauling huge
rocks to make a staircase. His hands are black with dirt, and
his hair, which is going gray, looks like a bird's nest, full of
dust and twigs from scrambling in the underbrush on the canyon
floor. Grinning, he presents the booty from one of his weekly
rituals, scavenging on the streets of Moab: a wool hat and
gloves, a winter jacket, and a white nylon belt, still wrapped
in plastic, along with Carhartt pants and sandals, which he's
wearing. He's also scrounged cans of tuna and turkey Spam and a
honeycomb candle. All in all, a nice haul from the waste product
of America. "You made it," he says. I hand him a bag of apples
and a block of cheese I bought at the supermarket, but the gift
suddenly seems meager.
Suelo lights the candle and stokes a fire in
the stove, which is an old blackened tin, the kind that
Christmas cookies might come in. It's hooked to a chain of soup
cans segmented like a caterpillar and fitted to a hole in the
rock. Soon smoke billows into the night and the cave is warm. I
think of how John the Baptist survived on honey and locusts in
the desert. Suelo, who keeps a copy of the Bible for bedtime
reading, is satisfied with a few grasshoppers fried in his
skillet.
HE WASN'T ALWAYS THIS WAY. SUELO graduated
from the University of Colorado with a degree in anthropology,
he thought about becoming a doctor, he held jobs, he had cash
and a bank account. In 1987, after several years as an assistant
lab technician in Colorado hospitals, he joined the Peace Corps
and was posted to an Ecuadoran village high in the Andes. He was
charged with monitoring the health of tribespeople in the area,
teaching first aid and nutrition, and handing out medicine where
needed; his proudest achievement was delivering three babies.
The tribe had been getting richer for a decade, and during the
two years he was there he watched as the villagers began to
adopt the economics of modernity. They sold the food from their
fields—quinoa, potatoes, corn, lentils—for cash, which they used
to purchase things they didn't need, as Suelo describes it. They
bought soda and white flour and refined sugar and noodles and
big bags of MSG to flavor the starchy meals. They bought TVs.
The more they spent, says Suelo, the more their health declined.
He could measure the deterioration on his charts. "It looked,"
he says, "like money was impoverishing them."
The experience was transformative, but Suelo
needed another decade to fashion his response. He moved to Moab
and worked at a women's shelter for five years. He wanted to
help people, but getting paid for it seemed dishonest—how real
was help that demanded recompense? The answer lay, in part, in
the Christianity of his childhood. In Suelo's nascent
philosophy, following Jesus meant adopting the hard life
prescribed in the Sermon on the Mount. "Giving up possessions,
living beyond credit and debt," Suelo explains on his blog,
"freely giving and freely taking, forgiving all debts, owing
nobody a thing, living and walking without guilt . . . grudge
[or] judgment." If grace was the goal, Suelo told himself, then
it had to be grace in the classical sense, from the Latin
gratia, meaning favor—and also, free.
By 1999, he was living in a Buddhist monastery
in Thailand—he had saved just enough money for the flight. From
there, he made his way to India, where he found himself in good
company among the sadhus, the revered ascetics who go penniless
for their gods. Numbering as many as 5 million, the sadhus can
be found wandering roads and forests across the subcontinent,
seeking enlightenment in self-abnegation. "I wanted to be a
sadhu," Suelo says. "But what good would it do for me to be a
sadhu in India? A true test of faith would be to return to one
of the most materialistic, money-worshipping nations on earth
and be a sadhu there. To be a vagabond in America, a bum, and
make an art of it—the idea enchanted me."
THERE ISN'T ENOUGH SPACE IN SUELO'S cave for
two, so I sleep in the open, at the edge of a hundred-foot
cliff. No worries about animals, he says. Though mountain lions
drink from the stream, and bobcats hunt rabbits under the
cottonwoods, the worst he's experienced was a skunk that sprayed
him in the face. Mice scurry over his body in the cave, and
kissing bugs sometimes suck the blood from under his fingernails
while he sleeps. He shrugs off these indignities. "After all,
it's their cave too," he says. I hunker down near a nest of
scorpions, which crawl up the canyon walls, ignoring me.
The morning ritual is simple and slow: a cup
of sharp tea brewed from the needles of piñon and juniper trees,
a swim in the cold emerald water where the creek pools in the
red rock. Then, two naked cavemen lounging under the Utah sun.
Around noon, we forage along the banks and under the cliffs,
looking for the stuff of a stir-fry dinner. We find mustard
plants among the rocks, the raw leaves as satisfying as
cauliflower, and down in the cool of the creek—where Suelo gets
his water and takes his baths (no soap for him) —we cull
watercress in heads as big as supermarket lettuce, and on the
bank we spot a lode of wild onions, with bulbs that pop clean
from the soil. In leaner times, Suelo's gatherings include ants,
grubs, termites, lizards, and roadkill. He recently found a
deer, freshly run over, and carved it up and boiled it. "The
best venison of my life," he says.
I tell him that living without money seems
difficult. What about starvation? He's never gone without a meal
(friends in Moab sometimes feed him). What about getting deadly
ill? It happened once, after eating a cactus he misidentified—he
vomited, fell into a delirium, thought he was dying, even wrote
a note for those who would find his corpse. But he got better.
That it's hard is exactly the point, he says. "Hardship is a
good thing. We need the challenge. Our bodies need it. Our
immune systems need it. My hardships are simple, right at
hand—they're manageable." When I tell him about my rent back in
New York—$2,400 a month—he shakes his head. What's left unsaid
is that I'm here writing about him to make money, for a magazine
that depends for its survival on the advertising revenue of
conspicuous consumption. As he prepares a cooking fire, Suelo
tells me that years ago he had a neighbor in the canyon, an
alcoholic who lived in a cave bigger than his. The old man would
pan for gold in the stream and net enough cash each month to buy
the beer that kept him drunk. Suelo considers the riches of our
own forage. "What if we saw gold for what it is?" he says
meditatively. "Gold is pretty but virtually useless. Somebody
decided it has worth, and everybody accepted this decision. The
natives in the Americas thought Europeans were insane because of
their lust for such a useless yellow substance."
He sautés the watercress, mustard leaves, and
wild onions, mixing in fresh almonds he picked from a friend's
orchard and ghee made from Dumpster-dived butter, and we eat out
of his soot-caked pans. From the perch on the cliff, the life of
the sadhu seems reasonable. But I don't want to live in a cave.
I like indoor plumbing (Suelo squats). I like electricity.
Still, there's an obvious beauty in the simplicity of
subsistence. It's an un-American notion these days. We don't
revere our ascetics, and we dismiss the idea that money could be
some kind of consensual delusion. For most of us, it's as real
as the next house payment. Suelo doesn't take public assistance
or use food stamps, but he does survive in part on our reality,
the discarded surfeit of the money system that he denounces—a
system, as it happens, that recently looked like it was headed
for the cliff.
Suelo is 48, and he doesn't exactly have a
401(k). "I'll do what creatures have been doing for millions of
years for retirement," he says. "Why is it sad that I die in the
canyon and not in the geriatric ward well-insured? I have great
faith in the power of natural selection. And one day, I will be
selected out." Until then, think of him like the raven, cleaning
up the carcasses the rest of us leave behind.